Today was such a cool day. I woke up from a restless night’s sleep to nothing but rain in the forecast.
Although the weather looked dismal, I carried on. Today was technically my last day with a viable national
park ticket. That essentially means that without a ticket you can only stay in town and on main roads.
Over 90% of the island is dedicated to the national park! I wanted to get the very last things on my list
checked off.
Although the weather looked dismal, I carried on. Today was technically my last day with a viable national
park ticket. That essentially means that without a ticket you can only stay in town and on main roads.
Over 90% of the island is dedicated to the national park! I wanted to get the very last things on my list
checked off.
I took the shuttle to Anakena beach once again. There were not many people there obviously, because
it was raining and only 60 degrees. I met an italian man who gave me a ride on his motorcycle to a
secret beach with secret caves called Ovahe.
it was raining and only 60 degrees. I met an italian man who gave me a ride on his motorcycle to a
secret beach with secret caves called Ovahe.
Ovahe is a site of flora and fauna conservation and studies. Here they do control, manipulated and
experimental groups with the endemic and also the invasive species of plants on the island. Invasive
species have dramatically affected the project to re-grow the endemic plants on the island to finally bring
it out of deforestation.
experimental groups with the endemic and also the invasive species of plants on the island. Invasive
species have dramatically affected the project to re-grow the endemic plants on the island to finally bring
it out of deforestation.
Also at Ovahe is an ancient ceremonial burial site. There were markers to stay away from the sacred
burial ground. This is intriguing because on other places of the island, this is not the case! Many sacred
areas you just use common sense to not go on, but if you wanted to you could. This site is blocked off.
burial ground. This is intriguing because on other places of the island, this is not the case! Many sacred
areas you just use common sense to not go on, but if you wanted to you could. This site is blocked off.
I had no words looking at it because I knew it must be incredibly important. The burial ground is on a
cliff that juts out far into the ocean. It sits away from the rest of the coastline. The waves crashed
around it on three sides. It was beautiful. Often times the intense waves pull some of the rock away
from the burial ground. There have been a few instances where ancient bones have been torn away
from the burial site. Archaeologists will keep the bones and do a few tests on them, but then give the
bones back to the people of the island. The true Rapa Nui descendants have a special ceremony
dedicated for times like this.
cliff that juts out far into the ocean. It sits away from the rest of the coastline. The waves crashed
around it on three sides. It was beautiful. Often times the intense waves pull some of the rock away
from the burial ground. There have been a few instances where ancient bones have been torn away
from the burial site. Archaeologists will keep the bones and do a few tests on them, but then give the
bones back to the people of the island. The true Rapa Nui descendants have a special ceremony
dedicated for times like this.
After that little adventure, I set off to find the last four checkpoints on my “must-see” list I created for myself.
I made it to Ahu Te Pito Kura by hitchhiking with some tour guides who were on break. They were off to
go scuba diving, but they couldn’t resist helping the blonde girl hiking through the wilderness haha!
They told me some of the legends about Ahu Te Pito Kura, also.
I made it to Ahu Te Pito Kura by hitchhiking with some tour guides who were on break. They were off to
go scuba diving, but they couldn’t resist helping the blonde girl hiking through the wilderness haha!
They told me some of the legends about Ahu Te Pito Kura, also.
Ahu Te Pito Kura was quite a mystery for a long time. Scientists are often skeptical about taking facts
or leads from legends and myths that have been passed down for hundreds of years. This moai was
never given a name, and the placement on the island did not fit the normal criteria for a king or chief of
the island. No one knew who the man was that this moai represented.
or leads from legends and myths that have been passed down for hundreds of years. This moai was
never given a name, and the placement on the island did not fit the normal criteria for a king or chief of
the island. No one knew who the man was that this moai represented.
Legend has it that this ahu and moai were created by a widow on the island. She was a powerful and
rich woman, but kept it a secret. She fell madly in love with her husband when they were only young.
She was beautiful, but that is what all the men saw in her. The husband, however, saw her strength
and power along with her beauty. Together they had land that flourished and a fishing spot that helped
feed most of the island. People soon came together to respect and give their money to this couple.
Their smarts and wits were never for bad, though. The woman had power and beauty and her husband
had the kindness and smarts that formed a perfect couple. However, the legend says that the husband
died while they were still young. She mourned the loss of her very best friend worse than anyone
should have. They did not have children yet and the woman wanted to keep her husband’s energy
around. She took all of her money from their time together and ordered the greatest moai to ever be
built and erected.
rich woman, but kept it a secret. She fell madly in love with her husband when they were only young.
She was beautiful, but that is what all the men saw in her. The husband, however, saw her strength
and power along with her beauty. Together they had land that flourished and a fishing spot that helped
feed most of the island. People soon came together to respect and give their money to this couple.
Their smarts and wits were never for bad, though. The woman had power and beauty and her husband
had the kindness and smarts that formed a perfect couple. However, the legend says that the husband
died while they were still young. She mourned the loss of her very best friend worse than anyone
should have. They did not have children yet and the woman wanted to keep her husband’s energy
around. She took all of her money from their time together and ordered the greatest moai to ever be
built and erected.
Today, this moai is in fact the biggest moai to be constructed fully and make it to its ahu. The name for
this moai is “Paro” because he stood alone on his great ahu. Paro is over 10 meters (32.8 feet) long
and weighs about 80 tons! The topknot, or pukao, weighs over 12 tons. It is the largest pukao to be
carved and moved from the Puna Pau quarry. This ahu, moai, and pukao are almost perfectly preserved.
This moai was knocked down during the crisis as well, but archaeologists have decided not to try to
erect it back on its ahu. The moai is too large and the risk is too great. Even though it lays face down,
you can clearly see the perfectly preserved face of the moai. Upon walking up to the ahu, the enormous
size of the fallen moai is amazing. It is far larger than the rest of them on the island. It’s quite a
beautiful sight.
this moai is “Paro” because he stood alone on his great ahu. Paro is over 10 meters (32.8 feet) long
and weighs about 80 tons! The topknot, or pukao, weighs over 12 tons. It is the largest pukao to be
carved and moved from the Puna Pau quarry. This ahu, moai, and pukao are almost perfectly preserved.
This moai was knocked down during the crisis as well, but archaeologists have decided not to try to
erect it back on its ahu. The moai is too large and the risk is too great. Even though it lays face down,
you can clearly see the perfectly preserved face of the moai. Upon walking up to the ahu, the enormous
size of the fallen moai is amazing. It is far larger than the rest of them on the island. It’s quite a
beautiful sight.
Also at this sight are five stones that are incredibly important to the Rapa Nui people. Back in the
seafaring days, chiefs of polynesian people would have giant rocks to use as their “passport.” These
rocks were usually a perfect sphere with a flat bottom for storage. They sometimes had ornate carvings
or markings on small parts of them as well. Here lays the rock that the first chief Hotu Matu’a brought
with him to the island. This rock told other peoples who found the land first and where they were from.
Somehow these rocks could be told apart from one another by other nations. This rock was brought all
around the island in case other people were there. It signified that the island was conquered and now
belonged to the Rapa Nui people. After the chief and his men took the rock across the island, it found
it’s resting place on the northern end of the island near Anakena Beach. The other four stones point in
exactly the four cardinal directions. They surround the main chief rock and, again, show the importance
of seafaring and the directions.
seafaring days, chiefs of polynesian people would have giant rocks to use as their “passport.” These
rocks were usually a perfect sphere with a flat bottom for storage. They sometimes had ornate carvings
or markings on small parts of them as well. Here lays the rock that the first chief Hotu Matu’a brought
with him to the island. This rock told other peoples who found the land first and where they were from.
Somehow these rocks could be told apart from one another by other nations. This rock was brought all
around the island in case other people were there. It signified that the island was conquered and now
belonged to the Rapa Nui people. After the chief and his men took the rock across the island, it found
it’s resting place on the northern end of the island near Anakena Beach. The other four stones point in
exactly the four cardinal directions. They surround the main chief rock and, again, show the importance
of seafaring and the directions.
The Rapa Nui people call this place the “navel of the world” because this was the start of the Rapa Nui
civilization. This is where the people were born and they believed they could travel the entire world with
just their seafaring. It is also called that because, in the beginning, Chief Hotu Matu'a thought his two
islands might be the only places in the entire world. Soon, they realized that could not be true. But this
is kind of their “Garden of Eden” moment.
civilization. This is where the people were born and they believed they could travel the entire world with
just their seafaring. It is also called that because, in the beginning, Chief Hotu Matu'a thought his two
islands might be the only places in the entire world. Soon, they realized that could not be true. But this
is kind of their “Garden of Eden” moment.
I got to talking with the ranger who was on site here and he told me all of this information. He was born
and raised on the island and is a true descendant of the Rapa Nui people. The reason there is no plaque
explaining the rocks is because it is not “fact.” This is again just a legend passed down for generations.
The archaeology committee will not put a plaque at sights that are not proven to be fact. The tourists
come by, take a picture, and then leave without even knowing what the rocks symbolize. The park
ranger was very helpful explaining the importance of these stones. I was so grateful to him for sharing
his legends from his grandparents. It also turned out that he’s been to Pittsburgh because he moved to
Canada to follow a girl! It did not work out for them as a couple, so he found his way back to the island.
It is truly a small world out there.
and raised on the island and is a true descendant of the Rapa Nui people. The reason there is no plaque
explaining the rocks is because it is not “fact.” This is again just a legend passed down for generations.
The archaeology committee will not put a plaque at sights that are not proven to be fact. The tourists
come by, take a picture, and then leave without even knowing what the rocks symbolize. The park
ranger was very helpful explaining the importance of these stones. I was so grateful to him for sharing
his legends from his grandparents. It also turned out that he’s been to Pittsburgh because he moved to
Canada to follow a girl! It did not work out for them as a couple, so he found his way back to the island.
It is truly a small world out there.
The Rapa Nui Cultural Committee moved the rocks to the site of Ahu Te Pito Kura in order to keep a
better eye on it. It is one of the most sacred artifacts on the island along with the giant moai Paro. Here
there are always three park rangers on duty at all times. Two are at the front gates and one is always
guarding the precious rocks. Most other parts of the island are not even guarded by ropes or designated
pathways. Here there are three guards keeping watch. It really shows how much this site means to
the history of the Rapa Nui people.
better eye on it. It is one of the most sacred artifacts on the island along with the giant moai Paro. Here
there are always three park rangers on duty at all times. Two are at the front gates and one is always
guarding the precious rocks. Most other parts of the island are not even guarded by ropes or designated
pathways. Here there are three guards keeping watch. It really shows how much this site means to
the history of the Rapa Nui people.
After visiting the very interesting and sacred Ahu Te Pito Kura, I ventured to find Papa Vaka. Papa Vaka
is a ceremonial site filled with petroglyphs and rock formations. This place is a giant area of art. Papa
Vaka again shows the importance of the ocean and its resources it gives to the Rapa Nui people. The
petroglyphs here were carved into the flat lava flow that ran across the ground. These giant slabs are
called “papa.” The biggest papa on the island is seen here and is over 12 meters (39.4 feet) long!
is a ceremonial site filled with petroglyphs and rock formations. This place is a giant area of art. Papa
Vaka again shows the importance of the ocean and its resources it gives to the Rapa Nui people. The
petroglyphs here were carved into the flat lava flow that ran across the ground. These giant slabs are
called “papa.” The biggest papa on the island is seen here and is over 12 meters (39.4 feet) long!
When I visited here, I had the place all to myself. There was no one around for miles. The forecast had
rain coming every hour which deters many tourists from traveling about the island. However, the rain
here will last about a minute and then leave for a few hours. I had no problem going about my travels!
Being at this place alone was magical. Aside from the petroglyph artwork, there are lava rocks scattered
about. At first, they seem random. However, I have come to learn, nothing on this island is random. I
began to wonder if they reflect the constellations in the sky that are used for seafaring. After some later
investigations and asking some of my local Rapa Nui friends, I was right!
rain coming every hour which deters many tourists from traveling about the island. However, the rain
here will last about a minute and then leave for a few hours. I had no problem going about my travels!
Being at this place alone was magical. Aside from the petroglyph artwork, there are lava rocks scattered
about. At first, they seem random. However, I have come to learn, nothing on this island is random. I
began to wonder if they reflect the constellations in the sky that are used for seafaring. After some later
investigations and asking some of my local Rapa Nui friends, I was right!
 |
| This is the image created from different xrays and light defraction readings of the lava rock. This picture shows how many drawings are in the slabs. Many of the images, like the boats, hooks, and sea creatures are still very visible. |
Legend says that the rocks here were meant to help teach young scholars how to watch the sky when sailing. This was like a giant map that you could physically walk through. That was so cool to me! This area had the same idea as the looking bowls, but on a larger, more permanent scale. This was the first step to teaching the young intellectual students before they were ready to make real moves with the looking pools.
 |
| Each of these rocks is an exact mirror image of the night sky during certain seasons. They were carved and shaped to be a map of the night sky to teach young scholars. How cool! |
Next, I found my way to Hiro’s Trumpet, also called Pu O Hiro. In ancient times, this was considered the talisman for fishing. According to the legend, the noise made by blowing into the blowhole attracted fish to the coast. On Pu O Hiro, you can see how the holes were made and carved into the rock. It stands quite tall, coming up to about my shoulders. There were small petroglyphs on the rock as well including fishhooks and small fish.
The stone was also not just a magical tradition to bring in the fish for harvest, it was also a war trophy. At the beginning of the crisis time period, this stone was carried from one end of the island on several occasions. What better prize to have than the ability to get more fish for your people?!
 |
| Hiro's Trumpet is directly to the right of this road. Immediately to the left you can see the perfectly clear ocean and people are fishing there! I wonder if they had any luck;) |
On my trek back to the beach, I was greeted with more wild horses. There were quite a few young babies,
so I gave the mamas and babies lots of space! On my walk to find the beach again, I came across remnants of an
ancient, giant house! These were the biggest carved stones I have seen in an ancient house. It was
relatively away from the coast, but close to the cave. I wonder who lived there. There were no other
stones nearby, indicating that whoever lived here was important. Even asking around to the locals they
all say “it’s just another piece of the story that now belongs to the horses.” They see so many artifacts
during their lives here on the island that they become immune to it! Haha!
so I gave the mamas and babies lots of space! On my walk to find the beach again, I came across remnants of an
ancient, giant house! These were the biggest carved stones I have seen in an ancient house. It was
relatively away from the coast, but close to the cave. I wonder who lived there. There were no other
stones nearby, indicating that whoever lived here was important. Even asking around to the locals they
all say “it’s just another piece of the story that now belongs to the horses.” They see so many artifacts
during their lives here on the island that they become immune to it! Haha!
On my long walk all the way back to the island, a tour guide that I made friends with last week
stopped and picked me up with his group! We were laughing the entire ride back to the beach. The
group offered for me to stay with them and chat while they were at the beach for a bit. Turns out, they
meant lunch too! They opened their arms, and plates, to me and we made rice, salad, and the best
ceviche I ever ate! We all shared our company together, laughing and telling stories for about two hours.
I was so grateful to them for letting me tag along, but they were grateful to me! They were so
appreciative that an outsider would sit and talk with them (even with a slight language barrier) for the
afternoon. One of the older gentlemen even became a little emotional watching his family and new
friends all making and sharing food together. I loved it so much. They wanted me to come with them
on the rest of their tour! These people paid for a tour and their lunch, and just wanted me to join in for free.
That is what true hospitality and friendship is. I am so happy I met them. I had already explored the
areas they were visiting and reserved my shuttle back from the beach or else I would have joined with
them. I hope our paths cross again one day.
stopped and picked me up with his group! We were laughing the entire ride back to the beach. The
group offered for me to stay with them and chat while they were at the beach for a bit. Turns out, they
meant lunch too! They opened their arms, and plates, to me and we made rice, salad, and the best
ceviche I ever ate! We all shared our company together, laughing and telling stories for about two hours.
I was so grateful to them for letting me tag along, but they were grateful to me! They were so
appreciative that an outsider would sit and talk with them (even with a slight language barrier) for the
afternoon. One of the older gentlemen even became a little emotional watching his family and new
friends all making and sharing food together. I loved it so much. They wanted me to come with them
on the rest of their tour! These people paid for a tour and their lunch, and just wanted me to join in for free.
That is what true hospitality and friendship is. I am so happy I met them. I had already explored the
areas they were visiting and reserved my shuttle back from the beach or else I would have joined with
them. I hope our paths cross again one day.
 |
| We had dinner right here on the beach with a gorgeous sunset. |
 |
| Making ceviche for dinner! |
 |
| Mis nuevos amigos <3 |
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